We have made it to the top of the South Island. I’d like to say by leg power only but our plans changed along the way and I’m not even a little bit sorry. We have seen and experienced so many things, from thigh deep bogs to high altitude lakes, from the highest mountain in New Zealand to the tropical coastline and have at some point laughed in every spot.
We end this hiking adventure with two coastline hikes, the Abel Tasman Coast Track and the Queen Charlotte Track, ending as we started on the Te Araroa. Next up for us is a life of luxury, a month exploring the North Island in a tiny camper van. Look out for stories from the roads not trails!
Abel Tasman
Day 26. Wainui to Anipai Bay. 9 miles.
The Abel Tasman is one of New Zealands Great Walks, which basically means they rob you of money to stay anywhere on the trail. There’s a lot of logistics involved with a point to point walk, getting to and from the trail and also in this case negotiating the tides and estuary crossings.
As we started hiking on this trail we couldn’t believe how well maintained it was, I guess that’s where the bucks go, so I started to feel less grumpy about the money. The trail wound around a wooded headland, the weather was great, actively warm for the first time in forever, a well graded ascent and descent meant it felt like we were flying. Through the trees we started to get glimpses of the coastline, golden bays with turquoise ocean, flanked by deep green woodland, absolute tropical heaven.
We ate lunch surrounded on three sides by the ocean, but couldn’t linger long, the sun can be like a laser without you noticing. We carried on, down to stunning beaches, totally deserted and climbed back up through the bush to the next bay, several times.
Eventually we descended to Anipai Bay, a stunning golden bay with a tiny flat campsite right on the beach. We have some PTSD from the time we camped on the beach in a sandstorm but we had to have faith it couldn’t happen again. We did all of our camp jobs and threw our swimming stuff on ready for an evening dip, which we had been fantasising about all day, but the literal moment we stepped foot in the water the sky went grey, the wind picked up and it was immediately winter again. We sat freezing but dry waiting for it to clear up but eventually had to give in and put all of our clothes on to warm back up again. We’ll try again tomorrow for our ideal sea swim.
Day 27. Anipai Bay to Anchorage Bay. 11 miles.
The fear of being cold and blown over got to us slightly and we ended up sharing a tent just in case, there were Tsunami evacuation plans posted on the trees and the last thing we would want is to be separated in another major disaster. We were toasty warm all night though!
A quick two mile start to the morning over a steep headland had us get to a water taxi pick up point by mid morning. We had to taxi around an estuary crossing because we didn’t have time to wait a day for the tide to be right. I do love a boat ride, so I wasn’t upset about this at all.
We headed up and over one of many headlands to Bark Bay for lunch. Without hesitation we stripped and went straight in the sea for a dip, accompanied by several stingrays. The water was crystal clear and warm, and I felt an enormous sense of gratitude that I get to do these things while every other sucker is at work! We did get our comeuppance at lunch when we got absolutely mugged off by a gang of Weka. These smart, parrot come chicken type birds are clever, as we were eating they started to close in on us, they used a tried and tested tactic of one distracts while the other goes in for the kill, which in this case was all of willows cheese, off they ran, no chance of getting it back, we even saw them sharing the loot out between them. We had been totally hustled by birds!
The afternoon hike was much of the same, short steep up and overs, beautiful glimpses of golden bays and views in full technicolour. We weren’t mad about the lack of variety, the more bays we saw the more times we were wowed, it was paradise.
Anchorage Bay was our destination, a huge campground in the trees next to the bay. We much preferred our private and remote beach from last night but they did have flushing toilets here. We sat on the beach and ate our dinner out of our pot and watched the sunset. We both felt really present in the moment, enjoying being exactly there at that exact time in our lives.
Day 28. Anchorage Bay to Marahau. 9 miles.
Sometimes my worst tent nights are because I’m too cold or there’s a storm or I’m scared but sometimes, like last night, it’s purely because it’s way too people-y. People having campfires, people snoring, people walking around the tent, in the remote wilderness no hikers stay up past 9pm, no hikers want their precious gear to smell like fire, it’s the price we paid for a well maintained trail. We got straight up and out in the morning and ate our breakfast watching the sun rise on the beach.
We climbed up to a wooded ridgeline with views in all directions, out to sea and down the coast. We made a snap decision to detour to Apple Tree Bay. Bloody glorious, a near deserted beach, we raced into the water and soaked our cares away, ate cheese and crackers on the beach for lunch and lounged in the sun. It felt frivolous but we couldn’t help ourselves.
The afternoon was just easy hiking with stunning views, the fact that I rolled my ankle on completely flat ground gave me some fury. Luckily we had time so we slowed down as I did some hobbling, feeling the swelling making my shoe tight.
We had some transits to do, a bus journey back to Nelson and then a long hitch hike to a place called Havelock. We got a great ride with an English guy traveling around NZ, so grateful he picked us up, after 30 mins with our thumbs out, each car that drove past felt like a personal rejection and I wasn’t sure I could take much more. We had a quick over night here to resupply before starting another four day hike tomorrow.
Queen Charlotte Track
Day 28. Havelock/Anakiwa to Mistletoe Bay. 9 miles.
Our day started out with two great hitches, the first cars that passed us, we barely had our thumbs up when they each stopped, both women, both Dutch and both dairy farmers. The second one was particularly great because she had her cattle dog in the back who I could give some serious lovings to.
Straight onto the Queen Charlotte Track and straight into a climb. Our packs are heavy but manageable, the sun was glorious, and the path was wooded and well graded. We were walking up the coast, the Marlborough Sound, but it’s small inlets and islands not beaches and we are high up mountains that go straight into the sea.
We smashed out the miles arriving at our campsite by mid afternoon. We had an amazing afternoon lounging on the private dock in the sun, playing cards and looking at our trip photos. We aren’t very good at doing chilled things, we both had some guilt, like we should have gone further, kept hiking to the next campsite but we have to keep telling ourselves it’s ok to do a short day, most people wouldn’t consider 9 miles up and over a mountain with 30lb packs short anyway. The only problem was my extreme hunger. Because we carry such strict rations I’ve always been pretty good at turning my hunger off, but sometimes, I just get a day where nothing will quench my hunger. I went way too hard on my snacks and I know I will live to regret it another day when I have none but I literally could not stop!
One of the reasons we wanted to stay at mistletoe bay was their bioluminescent water. I just want to start this story with, I think this was one of my best experiences in New Zealand! Once it was full dark we walked out onto the dock. At first we couldn’t see anything, we threw a few rocks in and thought we saw something but assumed it was just the reflection of the stars which were out in full force, a full milky way over our heads. It was not a reflection, we quickly put our hands in the water, and immediately saw the glow, it was like flashes of light under the water everywhere, every time we moved. Willow was the bravest, she stripped all her clothes off and got in the pitch black water. Not one to miss out on a moment I had to do the same. It was like swimming in a fireworks display, we were engulfed in thousands of tiny fairy lights under the water. Genuinely awestruck, never experienced anything like it before, a moment I will never forget.
We walked back to our tiny tents dripping wet, staring up at the sky, the clearest we have seen it, there were so many stars out that it was impossible to pick out any constellations. On the banks of the track were glowing green dots, hundreds of tiny glow worms lighting our path, I’ve never seen so many glowing, bright and sparkling things in one night before, truly magical.
Day 29. Mistletoe Bay to The Bay of Many Coves Campsite. 15 miles.
We had a late start to the morning, one because we were up so late having our minds blown by glowing water, two because our tents were soaking wet from the dew and three because I needed the tiny camp shop to open so I could buy some emergency snacks.
Once we did get going it was a tough day of climbing. At 9am it was already roasting, I’m not going to complain at all about being hot because it’s all I’ve wanted, but with hot comes sweat, in many places and areas of your body that can be particularly uncomfortable.
It was surprisingly steep in places, but we were rewarded all day with amazing panoramic views, we were on a wooded ridgeline with coastal views on both sides of us, in front and behind. It was a very samey day, the morning and afternoon meshed together with no real dramas just lots of climbing and sweating. We met a hiker once who told us not to do the Queen Charlotte Track because it was too pleasant, I think this is what she was talking about, but I have to say, I absolutely love pleasant.
We arrived at our campsite and did all of our jobs, then realised this would be the last night in our tents, the last night of cooking on our stove, the last night of filtering water possibly of our trip and definitely in the South Island. It’s very bitter sweet, I’m ready to go to new places and see new things and not have to hike all of my belongings along with me, I’m excited to have the freedom of wheels, but I’m pretty cut up about this part coming to an end.
We played a round of cards, watched the sunset and lay in our tents getting harassed by weka, living the dream.
Day 30. Bay of Many Coves to Furneux lodge. 13 miles.
We had quite the wildlife encounter during the night, screaming, hissing possums right outside our tents sounded like they were fighting the weka gang like it was bloody Westside Story, and somewhere, in the chaos were some bleating wild goats, not the most restful night, I was paranoid a beak would break through my tent flap at any moment and steel my shoes.
We set our alarm for sunrise, there was rain forecast for the afternoon and we wanted to get going and get as many miles in as we could. As I opened my eyes I realised my whole tent was glowing orange from the light outside, I ripped my zip open and shouted for Willow to do the same and saw the most beautiful first of our trip and last of our South Island adventure, sunrise directly from my tent. We are usually up and awake at the right time but rarely have we been facing directly east to see it.
The miles melted under our legs, they were much easier than yesterday, but still undulating up and down. By 1pm, under low grey clouds, we had hiked 13 miles pretty much non stop and arrived at Furneux Lodge, a 5* resort that had a poor people bunk room which we had booked 2 beds in. All of our trail dreams came true in one one afternoon, firstly even though it’s a dorm room, we had no roommates so we technically had a private suite, secondly they had an outside hot tub for all guests, even the grubby hikers to use and so we soaked and soaked our weary bodies, thirdly the excellent water pressure in the shower plus hand soap meant I could smell much nicer and lastly, a full restaurant and bar with food and drinks galore in exchange for money, this is the most smug we could be especially as we sat in our room watching the rain not in our tents!
Day 31. Furneux Lodge to Ship Cove. 10 miles.
We treated ourselves to a luxury breakfast before we left, avocado, bacon, hash browns the lot. We’ve literally gone from starving to uncomfortably full in just a couple of days. Most of the time we are really frugal and try and spend as little as we can, but then other times, times that usually involve food, it’s a shut up and take my money situation.
The weather was grey, damp and cold, with no views just fog. We tightened our packs and just started tramping. It was slippery clay underfoot so we were doing a lot of controlled slides. We had to don our rain ponchos for the first time this entire trip, not counting the times we’ve worn them to do our laundry.
Luckily it was just a mere 10 miles, I say that because the terrain made for an easy half day hike, and we cruised into Ship Cove, the most northern point of the south island TA with a skip in our steps. Doing some quick mental maths rounding up, we reckon we’ve hiked approximately 500 miles/800km in New Zealand so far, and I say so far because we aren’t done hiking, we are just looking forward to a change of pace and some luxury items, like more than 3 pairs of undies and not having to carry every single belonging on our backs. See you on the North Island.
Sophie on the A.T. 